Becky and I flew out together, but since she had to work, I had the afternoon to wander around on my own for a bit. I set off with a map in my bag, in case I got really turned around, and no plans for where I would go. After a while, I ended up at American University of Beirut (AUB). I had considered AUB in passing when I was looking at colleges, but never really thought about it much. I wandered around the campus for a couple hours, and it was beautiful. Hands down, it is one of my favorite campuses yet. On the Mediterranean coast, the campus is filled with trees and flowers and winding paths. It's quiet, even though it's in the city. I could've spent the rest of my weekend there. But instead, I walked down to the Corniche, kind of like a boardwalk, on the coast and enjoyed the smell of the sea. It began to look like it would rain, so I made my way back to where we were staying, sat on the balcony with a cup of tea and enjoyed the downpour while waiting for Becky to finish up with work. Afterwards, Becky and I went out for dinner (at a small Lebanese restaurant), walked by the sea, then turned in for an early night. Ekkardt's flight was delayed, so he didn't get in until after midnight.
On Friday morning, we slept in, talked to former teachers of Ekkardt's, then headed off for coffee and croissants. After breakfast, we walked downtown, passing shelled out buildings, beautiful schools with elaborate rose gardens, stopped to talk to some adorable kindergarten-aged girls in a mixture of French and Arabic, making our way towards St. George's Cathedral. We found out that it was actually St. George's day, celebrating St. George's defeat of the dragon. We stopped first at an orthodox church, where we got a tour through the church, learning about recent excavations and the different levels of previous churches underneath the current one. While most of the interior paintings had been restored, you could still see bullet holes in one of the panels, left over from the civil war. From there, we headed towards the Place des Martyrs, a former gathering place for large demonstrations. The most famous demonstration there was held on the 1 month anniversary of Hariri's murder (the former prime minister), when over a million people came out to protest the presence of Syrian troops in Lebanon. There's a big statue in the middle which still stands, filled with bullet holes. We then went to look at some ruins next to a big parking lot, and afterwards saw Hariri's grave. Next to the memorial site is the Mohammed al-Amin mosque, where Hariri is buried. Becky and I were given garments to cover up, and we went in. The paintings on the ceiling were beautiful, and the chandeliers were massive, in true Arab style. This was the first time I had ever been inside a mosque. Afterwards, we stopped at St. George's Cathedral, passed by the Senate building, the Roman baths, and began to make our way back towards Hamra, where we were staying. At one point, I pulled out my camera to take a picture of what used to be the Four Seasons, now a shelled-out building. You can still see bullet holes and where grenades hit. All of a sudden, this guard crosses the street, yelling at me in Arabic about how I'm not allowed to take pictures. It turns out that we had just entered a really private residential neighborhood, home of a lot of very wealthy and influential people. There were guards posted every 100 yards. After some conversation and joking around in Arabic, we promised not to take any more pictures there, and were allowed to walk through the area. We stopped and chatted with all the guards, who would then smile and welcome us, promising to help us with anything we needed. We walked past the former Four Seasons, a stark contrast to the thriving Inter Continental right next to it, then past the memorial where Hariri had been killed. You could still see the impact of the bomb on the building next to it, which had been left as-is since Hariri's death. We passed the Yacht Club, the Hard Rock Cafe, and groups of old men huddled over games of backgammon before we stopped to enjoy the sunshine on the Corniche for a bit. After a late lunch, we walked back towards Hamra, stopping at the building that Becky and Ekkardt used to live in, now luxury apartments. We hung out for a while, then headed out for a really late dinner at a Chinese restaurant.
On Saturday, we got up a little earlier, stopped by a grocery store, then went out to the Pigeon Rocks for a picnic breakfast. We had donuts, croissants, and fresh strawberries. The view was beautiful! The rocks themselves are really cool - they're large arches that you can take a boat through, and apparently one of the only natural features of Beirut. After breakfast, we walked back to the Corniche for some Starbucks, then grabbed a serviis to Ashrafiyya, the Christian quarter. We walked through an open-air mall for some shoe shopping, played with the new iPad, then walked down to see a church we had passed. You walked in through a row a trees, surrounded by grave sites and monuments dating back hundreds of years. We then took a taxi back to Hamra, I packed my things, then got in a taxi back to the airport.
Though it was a packed weekend, I absolutely loved it. The city is so different than Amman - I could walk around and blend in. There are loads of foreigners there, so I didn't stick out like I do here. I could just walk around the city. I miss that. The Arabic was also a lot easier for me to understand, maybe because I took French for so long. I had several really good conversations with locals, completely in Arabic, and understood what was going on, which was really encouraging for me. I could definitely live there.
A lot also changed over these three days. First of all, I received a phone call right before I got on the plane Thursday morning from the choir, asking if I would go to Germany with them, and that I would have to decide by Saturday. I also found out that morning that Aisling, my older sister, was taking an internship here in Amman and would be moving out for the summer. With my original orientation dates being in the middle of June, I was upset, because I'd miss out on being here with her. So on Friday, I called up UNCG, got my orientation dates moved to August, and decided to go to Germany. This obviously changed all my summer plans. I was supposed to leave on my birthday, but am now staying here. I leave in 2 weeks for a 10 day trip to Germany for the Musica Sacra International Festival, and am now working really hard to memorize all this music in Arabic.
Coming up: another long, detailed post on the epic 3 day hiking trip through Wadi Hissa. You can also see my pictures from Beirut here


